Hydroquinone: Bad for Your Skin, Bad for the Landfill

Michael Jackson was the King of Pop and the king of the skin lightening controversy; Jackson’s drastic change in appearance made him almost as famous as Thriller did. Rumors of his use of hydroquinone to lighten his skin, and subsequent agreement by dermatologists sparked a media stir long before his legacy. What was the fuss all about? Racial tensions aside, hydroquinone is not exactly FDA approved, with its startling side effects and landfill hazards.

The hydroquinone hype and definition

Hydroquinone, for human cosmetic uses, is a skin-bleaching topical medication that decreases the formation of melanin in the skin. Melanin is the pigment that causes brown coloring in skin. Most often, it is not used all over (as rumored with Jackson) but instead to lighten areas of darkened skin such as freckles, age spots, chloasma and melasma, according to Drugs.com. Prescription drugs containing hydroquinone include Lustra, Tri-Luma, and EpiQuin Micro. All bottle labels tell the consumer to limit exposure to sunlight or artificial UV rays, including sunlamps or tanning beds. Hydroquinone makes skin more sensitive to the sun and more sunburn prone. Use of a sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 15 is recommended.

The FDA on hydroquinone

On August 29, 2006, the FDA proposed a ban on over-the-counter sales of cosmetic products containing hydroquinone, according to Medicine.net. According to the FDA, approximately 65 companies sell over 200 different types of skin-lightening products containing hydroquinone in the U.S.

While products still containing up to 2% hydroquinone may be sold in the U.S. without a prescription, 4% hydroquinone must have a prescription. Those numbers could soon decrease quite a bit. What’s the evidence? There is enough of a pattern on tested rodents to have the FDA state that it did see “some evidence” that hydroquinone may act as a carcinogen or cancer-causing chemical, although its cancer-causing properties have not been proven to affect humans the same way.

Further, the FDA stated that studies have revealed that hydroquinone can cause exogenous ochronosis, a disfiguring disease where the skin displays blue-black pigments all over.

Contamination

Not surprisingly, hydroquinone has been found to be an eco-contaminate. Products containing the chemical regularly are pitched in the trash and end up in our landfills, seeping the toxin into soil, potentially becoming a health hazard. While hydroquinone undoubtedly comes in regular contact with skin on a daily basis, its moderate toxicity level is alarming nonetheless. It is best to choose products that include alternatives to the toxin.

The new hydroquinone

The alternative to hydroquinone for cosmetic uses is simple, according to the FDA, as well as the environmentally and health conscious: simply stay away from it and bare your natural skin tone. But beauty professionals are getting more creative with organic alternatives, of which there are many, according to NewBeauty.com.

The first choice for hydroquinone replacement is Arbutin, an extract of the bearberry plant. According to NewBeauty.com, it has been shown to be effective at inhibiting melanin synthesis. In other words, it offers the same lightening effect without unwanted side effects. The next choice is, azelaic acid, made from yeast that grows naturally on skin. Not far behind in recommendations is kojic acid, made from fungus, which has already been used for years as a skin lightener. Then there is the commonly mixed in but rarely used alone lactic acid. It is derived from sour milk and is known as a gentle, natural way to lighten skin. More commonly, it is an exfoliator, but when looking for alternatives, sometimes the least popular is the best bet.